Paris – Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr will hold its second dedicated Haute Couture sale: 1910-2010, 100 Years of Haute Couture from Paul Poiret to Rick Owens on April 16, 2025. The live sale will feature exquisite designs from various collections that evoke the epitome of fashion refinement across the decades from Paul Poiret, Gabrielle Chanel, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Jeanne Lanvin, Grès, Madeleine Vionnet, Elsa Schiaparelli, Yves Saint Laurent, Paco Rabanne, Thierry Mugler, Pierre Cardin, Rick Owens and Courrèges.

Hubert Felbacq, Head of Fashion and Bags at Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr in Paris commented: "Following on from the success of our first dedicated Haute Couture sale in 2024, and the recent Didier Ludot collection, that captured everyone's imaginations, Bonhams announces April's Haute Couture sale. The sale includes a series of single-owner collections with exceptional provenance that signify moments of fashion history including important designs from the pinnacle of the fashion elite, namely Gabrielle Chanel, Christian Dior and Jeanne Lanvin. The world of Haute couture encompasses an invaluable heritage in French luxury with the creation of one-off pieces of exceptional craftsmanship designed by the atelier for private clients, it is a delight to be able to share the secret world of fashion at auction".

An important lot is a Chanel, designed by Gabrielle Chanel, Haute Couture collection, Spring-Summer 1927, short evening gown in pink silk satin and mechanical lace. The dress is entirely embroidered with small white pearls. A similar model was exhibited in the V&A's 2023 "Gabrielle Chanel, Fashion Manifesto" exhibition. Offered with an estimate of €4,000-6,000.

The Haute Couture sale also presents a series of significant single-owner collections. First a collection of Lanvin and Chanel comes from fashion historian Laetitia Hedde, known for her work on the history of fashion houses, particularly Jeanne Lanvin. The lots come with exceptional provenance having been owned by three women who held positions as première vendeuses and model for Jeanne Lanvin and Chanel. The collection includes important pieces of Chanel dating from 1927-1930 and Jeanne Lanvin dating from pre-1939, including important Jeanne Lanvin documents from 1926-1966, order books with the names of models and customers, photographs signed by Jeanne Lanvin, numerous photos from the 1930s with Martine Peyre, the famous model, and documents from the 1960s and 1970s from the House of Chanel.

• A Jeanne Lanvin, Haute Couture collection, summer 1933, black evening dress. Offered with an estimate of €2,000-3,000.

• A Chanel, Haute Couture collection, circa 1970, white silk suit with navy stitching by artistic directors Jean Cazaubon and Yvonne Dudel. Offered with an estimate of €2,000-3,000.

• A Jeanne Lanvin, Haute Couture collection, circa 1930, black silk satin coat with partial topstitching. Offered with an estimate of €1,500-3,000.

Another single-owner collection comes from a Parisian ambassador's wife who was dressed by Chanel Haute Couture from 1968-1983. The 30-piece collection highlights the history of Chanel haute couture across the decades and includes designs from 1960s Gabrielle Chanel, the 1970s through to Karl Lagerfeld, including a sumptuous evening suit from 1983, Lagerfeld's second collection for Chanel.

• A Chanel, Haute Couture collection, Autumn-Winter 1983, cocktail suit in violet silk and beaded braid by artistic director Karl Lagerfeld with embroidery by François Lesage. The single-breasted jacket with round neckline features a bow and four patch pocket detail, with matching wrap skirt that can also be worn as a strapless top. Offered with an estimate of €3,000-5,000.

• A Chanel, Haute Couture collection, Spring-Summer 1974, evening suit in silk printed with camellias, tweed and covered in translucent sequins by artistic directors Jean Cazaubon and Yvonne Dudel. The long-sleeved V-neck cardigan is worn with a slightly flared straight skirt and knotted tie collar blouse. Offered with an estimate of €2,000-4,000.

• A Chanel, Haute Couture collection, Autumn-Winter 1970, white, grey and red tweed suit designed by Gabrielle Chanel. Entirely trimmed in red silk, the jacket features a small collar enhanced by two ties with single breasted buttoning under the placket and four flap pockets. Worn with a matching slightly flared skirt. Offered with an estimate of €1,000-1,500.

Included in the sale is an important collection of Christian Dior, with more than 25 lots ranging in dates from 1950 to 1994:

• A Christian Dior, Haute Couture collection, Autumn-Winter 1964, by artistic director Marc Bohan, grand evening dress in chestnut shantung silk. Featuring a round neckline, wide sleeves with panels embroidered with gold and silver thread enhanced with imitation Citrine cabochons and full skirt. The dress is offered with an estimate of €8,000-10,000.

• A Christian Dior, Haute Couture collection, circa 1952 by Christian Dior, cocktail outfit. The design consists of a top, skirt and fitted jacket in black silk brocade with large rocaille and flower designs inspired by18th century motifs in gold and silver threads. Offered with an estimate of €5,000-6,000.

• A Christian Dior, Haute Couture collection, Spring-Summer 1961, by artistic director Marc Bohan, cocktail dress. The dress designed in ivory gauze and silk chiffon with a boat neckline, bubbled effect bust, and asymmetrical pleated skirt is offered with an estimate of €2,000-4,000.

Paco Rabanne designs feature in the sale, with over 10 lots ranging in dates from 1967 to 1985:

• A Paco Rabanne, aluminum plate mini dress, circa 1967. The dress is a signifier of the 1960s style and saw Rabanne became known for using innovative fabrics, new technologies and embracing space engineering in his designs. Offered with an estimate of €12,000-18,000.

• A Paco Rabanne long sleeved tunic, circa 1985. The tunic is crafted in round transparent, white and tortoiseshell coloured Rhodoid plates, offered with an estimate of €1,500-2,000.

• A Paco Rabanne, ready-to-wear collection dress, circa 1985. The metallic sequin dress and matching bag is offered with an estimate of €1,500-2,000.

Other sale highlights include a fine set of signed jewellery by Chanel, Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent:

• A rare Chanel, Haute Couture collection, sautoir, circa 1927. The exceptional necklace by Maison Gripoix is designed in transparent and coloured crystal. Offered with an estimate of €3,000-4,000.

• A John Galliano for Christian Dior, ready-to-wear collection, circa 2005 choker and earring set. The fringed choker and pair of clip earrings are designed with half-set mini pearl beads with a daisy motive. Offered with an estimate of €2,000-2,500.

• A John Galliano for Christian Dior, ready-to-wear collection, autumn-winter 2001 necklace. The magnificent, enamelled metal flower necklace is offered with an estimate of €2,000-2,500.

• A Yves Saint Laurent, ready-to-wear collection, circa 1988 necklace by Robert Goossens. The long necklace in hammered gold-plated metal, enhanced with rhinestones imitating precious stones and enamel panels is offered with an estimate of €600-800.

• A Yves Saint Laurent, ready-to-wear, autumn-winter 1978 necklace by Robert Goossens. The rare coral necklace in blue lacquered metal and rhinestones, is offered with an estimate of €600-800.

(Press Release)