Featured Image: CARTIER: THE ASTOR TURQUOISE AND DIAMOND TIARA, 1930

London – Bonhams New Bond Street presents the much anticipated London Jewels sale on 5 June 2025. The live sale features arguably one of the most enduring design legacies from Cartier, the Astor turquoise and diamond tiara, circa 1930, owned by Nancy, Viscountess Astor (1879-1964). This exceptionally rare tiara, having come from the collection of Nancy Astor, and by descent to the present owner, will be seen on the market for the first time since it was sold to Lord Astor by Cartier London in 1930. Of Eastern inspiration, the tiara is presented with a pre-sale estimate of £250,000-350,000.

Nancy Astor, Viscountess Astor was born Nancy Witcher Langhorne in Danville, Virginia. The American-born British politician became the first woman to take her seat in Parliament, serving from 1919 to 1945. In 1905, she moved to England and met the American-born, Waldorf Astor, 2nd Viscount Astor (1879-1952) on the same voyage across the Atlantic from America. After their wedding in 1906, the Astors moved into Cliveden, their lavish estate in Buckinghamshire – a wedding gift from Astor's father. Nancy Astor became renowned as a prominent hostess for Britain's social elite before advocating for temperance, welfare, education reform and women's rights in parliament.

Jean Ghika, Bonhams Global Head of Jewellery, commented: "London Jewels features an impressive selection of jewellery, but undoubtedly, the star of the sale is the Astor turquoise and diamond tiara by Cartier, formerly in the collection of Nancy, Viscountess Astor. Cartier has long been recognised as the name behind some of the world's most important jewels and the Astor turquoise and diamond tiara dates to a period when Cartier London were at the height of their creative prowess. Cartier were later commissioned to produce a similar tiara for Nancy's sister. However, the design of Nancy Astor's tiara is truly unique. The distinctive plumes, leaves and scrolls carved in turquoise were drawn from Egyptian, Indian and Persian motifs, which were extensively explored by Cartier throughout the early 20thcentury. The firm's Eastern inspired jewels became hugely fashionable as a result. The tiara hasn't been seen on the market since Lord Astor purchased it from Cartier in 1930. With impeccable provenance and a compelling marriage of Western and Eastern influences in the design, the tiara is exceptionally rare, and we feel honoured to have the opportunity to present it for sale for the first time in nearly a century."

The tiara is first recorded in the Cartier archives in 1929 when Cartier instructed English Art Works to add the carved turquoise plumes and leaves to an existing diamond bandeau in 1930. The completed turquoise and diamond tiara is listed in Cartier's records in November 1930 and a month later it was sold to Viscount Astor. In 1931, Lady Astor notably wore the tiara to the premiere of 'City Lights' at the Dominion Theatre in London. In the early 1930s, Lady Astor loaned the tiara to her sister, Phyllis Langhorne Brand (1880-1937) for a court presentation at Buckingham Palace. Inspired by this exquisite Cartier jewel, Nancy's brother-in-law, the Hon. Robert Henry Brand (1878-1963),commissioned Cartier to produce a similar turquoise and diamond tiara in 1935.It is this second tiara that is currently on display at the V&A museum's landmark Cartier exhibition.

The Cartier Astor turquoise and diamond tiara heading to auction is set throughout with old brilliant, single, and rose-cut diamonds, with a principal old brilliant-cut diamond at the centre, issuing three fluted turquoise plumes set with brilliant and single-cut diamond stems. Each side of the tiara features a radiating fan-shaped turquoise panel design. The rare tiara is presented with an estimate of £250,000-350,000.

Other notable London Jewels highlights include:

• A Fancy Pink diamond and Fancy Bluish-Green diamond 'toi et moi' ring. The Fancy Pink diamond weighing 2.05 carats, the Fancy Bluish-Green diamond weighing 1.42 carats. Offered with an
estimate of £180,000-250,000.
• A set of three exceptional antique diamond-set rose brooches, mid-19th century. Each brooch formed as a sculptural diamond-set budding rose amongst diamondset leaves, forming a floral spray, set throughout with antique cushion androse-cut diamonds. The brooches are offered with an estimate of £50,000-80,000.
• A Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. diamond and gem-set leaves necklace, circa1980. The design is an articulated collar formed of pavé-set diamond leaves entwined with gold stems, with further gold bows throughout with a gem-set butterfly highlight. Signed Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co. Offered with an estimate of £40,000-60,000.
• A pair of diamond chandelier earrings, each articulating drop cascading with a graduation of pear-cut diamonds, weighing 3.17 carats and 4.02 carats, the remaining diamonds weighing approximately 28.00 carats total. Offered with an estimate of £40,000-60,000.
• A Cartier Citrine and diamond clip brooch, circa 1930. The oval 'buckle' motif is set with circular-cut citrines issuing old brilliant-cut diamond accents. The central pin is channel-set with calibré-cut citrines. Signed Cartier London. Offered with an estimate of £15,000-20,000.